Well, actually, it’s Sybarite Pig (20642 State Rd. 7, 561/883-3200), a wicked-cool, brew-centric “gastropub” with a name that just can’t help but make me smile.

It’s the brainchild of Daniel Naumko, a chef, suds-head and musician who took over the old Wicked Awesome Snackbar in a nondescript strip mall and turned it into a joint with the kind of hip, urban feel that’s in pretty short supply out in the furthest reaches of West Boca.

Naumko makes his own sausage, pickles and kimchi, infusing the small but sexy menu with lots of big, bold flavors at decidedly non-Boca moderate prices. The meat-centric menu offers most dishes in sandwich or “meat board” forms, and will likely send vegetarians fleeing with their hair on fire.

The rest of us, though, can enjoy chowing down on dishes like Moroccan-style merguez sausage on a pretzel bun with toasted cumin labne, tomato and feta; the classic Italian porchetta on brioche with lemon, capers, greens and mustard; Korean-style short ribs with smoked salt; and roasted bone marrow with shallot jelly and frisee-watercress salad. And for dessert, how about a bacon chocolate stout cookie?

The Pig is as much about the brew as the pork, with a handful of draft beers supplemented by a much larger selection of bottles, all emphasizing quirky, lesser-known, more exotic beers. In other words, don’t expect to find Sam Adams here. On the other hand, there’s lots of stuff at the Pig to make you say, “Oink!”