For more than a decade Out of Denmark was one of Delray’s best and best-loved restaurants. And now after a six-year absence, Out of Denmark (2275 S. Federal Hwy., 561/276-2242) is back in its old stomping grounds, this time in the former La Fiesta Café location in the Delray Plaza shopping center. Father and son chefs-owners Jorgen and Christian Moller are still working the line and the front of the house, turning out old favorites like pecan-crusted rainbow trout, sweet-and-sour cabbage, and the complimentary tri-level tray of appetizers so stop being nostalgic and start making reservations.
A few notes on the new modern Italian restaurant set to open in December in the posh Four Seasons Palm Beach resort. The former The Restaurant will be called Jové, after the Italian god of the sky, which with the resort’s other two eateries—Atlantic Bar & Grill (water) and Graze (land)—kind of covers all the earthly bases (paging Earth, Wind and Fire). Cheffing Jové under exec chef Darryl Moiles will be Italian native Mauro Zanusso, who comes to Palm Beach from Ristorante Il Frantoria in the Four Seasons Sharm el Sheikh in Egypt. There’s a new GM too. He’s Karma Tsepal, who prior to becoming (Four) Seasonal was assistant GM at Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak in Washington, D.C. No details on décor and menu yet but when I get them, you’ll be the first to know.
SHAMELESS TEASE: Yesterday I talked to former New York Times reporter Allen Salkin, who’s going on the road to promote his new book, From Scratch: Inside the Food Network. I haven’t gotten through the whole thing yet, but so far it’s a terrific read, full of details and juicy tidbits—plus some smart analysis and old-fashioned journalistic digging—about the creation and culinary world domination of this 800-pound cable TV gorilla. Salkin will be speaking in Palm Beach Gardens on Sunday, Nov. 3, but leading up to that I’ll be sharing some good stuff from the book and his interview. So watch this space to see which FN personalities are mensches and which are “difficult,” and whether the network’s future will look more like its past or a long ride on a bumpy road.