I know all the new trendy restaurants come and go; every week there is the Next Big Thing. There was the whole Asian fusion era, the discovery of the pork belly, the eons-long affair with tuna tartare. We’ve weathered everything from the omnipresent mango salsa and tiramisu of the 1990s to the enduring burger craze, the micro greens, the “handcrafted cocktail” everyone is pushing these days.

Well, I am here to tell you: give me an old-fashioned gin martini and a seat at Max’s Grill any night of the week. Max’s closed this summer to get all freshened up and it just reopened—and am I relieved. Max’s has been my go-to place since I moved here in 1991. It was where I used to see everyone at lunch back when I had time to go to lunch. It was where I discovered radiatore pasta and flatbread. It was good back then, it was good through the years, and it’s still good now It started all this great imaginative American cooking (once dubbed “California cuisine”) in Boca way back when, and it still rocks.

It looks great, too—new flashy bar, open kitchen. And the radiatore pasta? Still on the menu.

Happy to have you back.