A little fashion has landed in West Palm Beach and we don’t mean haute couture. We do mean Oli’s Fashion Cuisine (215 Clematis St., 561/650-8595), the third such fashionable eatery to debut in these parts from partners Dustin Parfitt and Juan Gando.
The WPB Oli’s takes over the space once occupied by Fuku, a place whose food never attained the heights of the controversy over its name or the general level of hype. It and its Wellington parent are named after horse town magnate Charles Oliver Wellington. (Parfitt and Gando also own the bistro-ish The Grille in Wellington.)
The idea behind Oli’s “fashion cuisine” is to bring a little Palm Beach style to the nether reaches of the county, especially in the artistic presentation of dishes. Or as the menu puts it, “A manner of preparing food that is stylish, seasonal and pleasing to the eye.”
What that means in your mouth are dishes like roasted pepper and gorgonzola bruschetta; beet salad with arugula, candied walnuts and goat cheese; filet mignon with wild mushrooms and bordelaise sauce; and shrimp ‘n’ grits with Key West pinks and chorizo.