I rarely get dumbstruck when I visit a restaurant these days, but it happened when I entered 388 Italian Restaurant By Mr. Sal. It was a Sunday, so I imagined a quiet evening in a subdued, dimly lit restaurant. To my surprise, 388 (as those “in the know” call it) is more of a Miami clubstaurant (restaurant with nightclub energy) with beaming pink lights, lively music, all-white décor, bustling waiters schlepping hulky dishes, and a symphony of clinking glasses. As I looked around, allowing my senses to catch up, I was delighted to see the hordes of patrons in pure merriment, sharing in 388’s massive family-style dishes. Yes, it’s a scene—so be prepared—but everyone was happy and enjoying themselves, and that joyous feeling superseded the unexpected noise level and illumination. Come here for an Italian meal but stay for the party atmosphere.
388 is owned by a family of restaurateurs who also operate the 388 flagship in Roslyn on Long Island, among other establishments. Now, the younger generation is expanding the brand, but the family continues to honor the elders. Mr. Sal, with his white suit and salt-and-pepper coif, is lauded in a framed portrait by the front door.
Most of the menu’s dishes come in half and whole portions. Half portions are hearty, but they enable your table to share more dishes, which I always welcome. We started with the Kobe beef meatball ($25). The massive sphere should have been an indication of how substantial the rest of the dishes were going to be. Bathed in tomato sauce and sporting an impressive dollop of ricotta cheese, it was tender, savory and exactly what I would want from a meatball. The pasta options are classic, like the alla vodka, marinara, baked ziti and spicy rigatoni ($30), which we ordered. It’s a timeless dish served with prosciutto and perfectly al dente.
Like the quintessential pastas, the chicken and veal entrees include beloved preparations like masala, Milanese and parmigiana. We ordered a chicken entrée, but the waiter insisted, as newcomers, that we try the Chicken Krak ($33) and even pledged to pay for it himself if we didn’t like it. With that offer and a name like that, we were intrigued. The towering mains arrived together, and I appreciated that our pleasant waiter offered to serve each of us instead of us having to balance plates and serving spoons. The thin, lightly breaded chicken cutlets were drenched in a marinara cherry pepper sauce with whole garlic cloves. Every enjoyable bite reminded me of a slightly spicy buffalo chicken dip.
As I finished the last of my pasta, I realized that patrons come here for that familial scene of camaraderie and nostalgic dishes. Throughout dinner, I kept glancing at the IG-worthy floral wall with its dazzling neon sign proclaiming, “So now you know.” Upon first being seated, I didn’t know what to think. I asked myself, “What do I now know?” Well, let me tell you: After experiencing 388—because that’s the best way to describe dinner here, an experience—I get it. Now I know. And once you dine here, you’ll get it, too.
IF YOU GO
3360 N. Federal Highway, Boca Raton; 561/794-3888
PARKING: Valet, parking lot
HOURS: Mon. – Thurs., 5 – 10 p.m.; Fri. – Sat., 5 – 11 p.m.; Sun., 5 – 9 p.m.
PRICES: $11 – $59
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