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New Smyrna Beach maintains a mellow ambience that harks back 40 years, unlike many beach towns along South Florida’s bustling coastline. The small city seems to fly under the tourism radar, though it is a hot spot for surfers. If quietude (read: no crowds) sounds inviting, then this city with a population of 32,000 is an ideal destination.

The Victoria 1883 is a welcoming place to drop your bags and begin your journey. The oldest local residence, the former waterfront estate is located along North Riverside Drive in an invitingly walkable, oak-canopied neighborhood overlooking the Indian River. Though it’s authentically Victorian opulence on the outside, the husband-and-wife team of architect Peter and Fabiola Spooner completely reimagined the interior of the seven-suite bed-and-breakfast with a modern design. In 2022, it reopened following a 17-month renovation.

The Victoria 1883 is across the street from the Indian River, photo by Craig Denis Creative

Fabiola, who is happy to detail the property’s history, is the event planner who oversees weddings and community gatherings on the spacious lawn beneath the property’s centuries-old oaks.

Guests can arrange to enjoy an intimate, private meal in the hidden “speakeasy,” which is artfully concealed inside the former carriage house. The chef also serves a healthful, complimentary breakfast to your table on the porch overlooking the river or in the dining room before you strike out to explore the area’s rich natural resources.

A peek inside the hidden “speakeasy” at the Victoria 1883, photo by Craig Denis Creative

Two must-see destinations are the 184-acre Smyrna Dunes Park along the shores of the Ponce de Leon Inlet and the Canaveral National Seashore. The dunes park features a 2-mile elevated boardwalk with scenic overlooks that takes visitors through the massive dune systems covered with dense vegetation and down to the quizzically crowd-free shoreline. In addition to the dunes, the national seashore has several points of interest, including the historic Eldora State House, an 18-foot Timucuan mound, marshes, oak hammocks, and beaches. The time of year dictates whether you will see the migratory birds—thousands—that use the barrier island as a stopover or sea turtles coming ashore to lay their eggs.

While exploring these natural amenities on foot, bicycle, by car, or in a kayak, you may find yourself wondering: Where is everyone? Both locations were peacefully, sparsely populated on a 76-degree April day.

A dining room in a Victoria 1883 suite, photo by Craig Denis Creative

After working up an appetite, grab a bite downtown or head to the patio garden at Third Wave Café & Wine Bar on Flagler Avenue in the heart of a quaint residential neighborhood, which caught the attention of celebrity chef Guy Fieri. (victoria1883.com)

Cathy Chestnut

Author Cathy Chestnut

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