Restaurant Review: Red Pine Restaurant & Lounge

1 Town Center Road, Boca Raton; 561/826-7595

Red Pine opened earlier this year to much fanfare. Would this arrival be able to replace Boca’s much-beloved Uncle Tai’s? While I never made it to Uncle Tai’s before it closed its doors in 2018, I have heard several Boca residents reminisce about its classic dishes and warm ambiance.

Aside from its proximity to its predecessor, Red Pine is totally different—it’s swanky and modern where Uncle Tai’s was vintage and subdued. I must admit it was tricky to find, because I was looking for a standalone restaurant and was unaware that it was inside the lobby of the One Town Center office building. I also didn’t see any exterior signage to help ease my confusion.

Once I found the restaurant, I discovered that owner Mitchell Robbins, who brought us Farmer’s Table, created a bright, lively space with floor-to-ceiling windows, an expansive bar and several dining spaces accentuated with crimson banquettes.

We had an early reservation, and the bar was busy with a Happy Hour crowd. We were seated in the back corner in a space that can double as a private dining room, separate from the energy of the main dining room and bar area. The sun was shining, and there weren’t many people dining, yet we were relegated to a dark corner, which was surprising. As we settled in, our waiter, who would become a trustworthy guide throughout our Chinese culinary journey, warmly welcomed us.

The menu is designed to be enjoyed family style, and the lazy Susan in the middle of our table encouraged sharing. We started with a couple of appetizers: the homemade vegetable egg roll ($16) and lobster & shrimp shumai ($20). The two massive egg rolls were by far one of the standout dishes of the evening. For parties of four, the waiter cuts them in half at the table using razor-sharp scissors. Stuffed with various vegetables from carrots to cabbage, these egg rolls were not overly fried and served with a chili apricot duck sauce that added a satisfying sweetness to each bite. While the shumai were nicely presented and tender, they did not have the flavor punch I expected.

We continued with the hoisin orange duck salad ($23). For its price point, it was a substantial portion that was easily shared. Again, the presentation was on point, but this dish also delivered on flavor. The duck was tender and paired with the crunchiness of the greens and the refreshing citrus dressing; it was a well-balanced and delightful dish I would order again.

The crispy garlic chicken ($32) was next. Again, a large portion to share, it was moist inside, with a wonderfully crunchy skin. It’s also topped with crunchy garlic and onions that add to its texture. The honey soy sauce contributed a hint of sweetness, and I would have liked more of it.

We finished the meal with the milk tea sponge cake ($15) that reminded me of a tres leches cake. Unless you’re lactose intolerant, this dessert is a dream. As I spooned a piece of vanilla cake that I had slathered in ice cream and then dipped in condensed milk, I reflected back to Uncle Tai’s accolades and pondered whether Red Pine was what the community has been hungering for. I definitely have high hopes.