I’ve been eating Greek food for most of my life—not at fast-casual gyro joints (some are great, too) but at home. I’m not Greek in the traditional sense, but I’m a proud Greek by marriage. My aunt married Demetrios when I was 10, and our Latin family was quickly introduced to his family recipes, which he prepared with gusto for our Sunday family dinners. He’d spend countless hours “talking to Greece” over the years, as he retold us at the table, chatting with his cousins, pad and pencil in hand, jotting down the recipes his family had perfected over the years. This is all a long-winded way of saying I love Greek food, and I’ve perfected biting into a perfectly crisp spanakopita without burning my mouth. So I was excited when I heard a Greek restaurant would be taking over a part of the reimagined Delray Beach Market food hall.
Lefkes Estiatorio is a Greek import by way of New Jersey. Chef Anastasio Dumas and his cousin, Georgia Dumas, opened their Athenian restaurant in 2004 and opened a second location in Santorini in 2017. Georgia Dumas then crossed the Atlantic to expand the brand in New Jersey in 2019 before landing in Delray late last year. For those who remember the Delray Beach Market food hall, Lefkes is located at the south side entrance of the building and looks nothing like the previous open-concept space lined with vendors. Now segmented by a wall with colorful flower projections, the interior is bright and vibey. Two bars, white flowy window drapes, floating greenery and a colorful resin fluid-like floor (definitely look down to admire) complete the design.
I was happy to see Greek wines on the menu. The service took quite a while to get out of first gear; our server was lovely but seemed to be pulled in many directions.
I was also happy to see several traditional Greek classics on the menu. We started with the saganaki ($22) and grilled octopus ($28). Saganaki is fried kefalograviera (sheep or a mixture of sheep and goat) cheese flambéed at the table. While the blaze wasn’t as fiery as I’ve previously seen at other restaurants, it did the trick. The cheese was gooey with a crispy crust. The octopus, which can be hit or miss, was a hit here—tender with a great char and chopped peppers that gave each bite a nice crunch.
We ordered the lamb chops ($45) and moussaka ($32) entrees, and both delivered high notes. The moussaka’s eggplant and potato layers were tender, the braised beef ragu was juicy with wonderful hints of cinnamon, and the bechamel that topped it all off was creamy and rich. The lamb was simply prepared with salt and had a good char. Greek lemon potatoes, if done correctly, are dreamy, and the side that accompanied the lamb was roasted perfection.
We enjoyed all our selections, but we decided that the star of the show was the baklava ($15) dessert. Its thick, nutty center was sandwiched between papery phyllo, and every bite oozed with sweet honey. It came with a scoop of vanilla ice cream that actually tasted like vanilla, the spice.
While we dined on a quiet weekday, I’ve seen its high-energy weekend parties online. So if you’re looking for a lively late-night Mykonos vibe complete with napkin throwing and pulsating tunes, Lefkes also delivers that. And while you can’t smash any plates, its well-executed cuisine will leave you just as satisfied. Opa!
IF YOU GO
33 S.E. Third Ave., Delray Beach; 561/908-2331
PARKING: Street and lot parking
HOURS: Monday – Wednesday 4 – 10 p.m.; Thursday 4 – 11 p.m.; Friday 4 p.m. – 2 a.m.; Saturday 11:30 a.m. – 2 a.m.; Sunday 11:30 a.m. – 10 p.m.
PRICES: $16 – $80
WEBSITE: lefkesgroup.com
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