I had walked by Rino’s several times, and each time I glanced inside, the restaurant was bustling with legions of smiling, pasta-loving patrons. The evening I visited was no different. However, what I couldn’t discern from the outside looking in was that everyone was dressed to impress. I now had a front-row seat to the parade of dapper diners. It’s hard to explain, but the vibe in the room radiated merriment and intense appreciation for the Italian fare that adorned each table.
As I swayed to the live music (available every night, not just on weekends) and perused the menu, a basket of warm bread, eggplant and basil spread and garlic oil for dipping hit the table. Looking around, the space is just as swanky as its guests. Instead of exposed brick walls or photos of the Motherland, the design features unique ice-like chandeliers, contemporary black-and-white artwork and an expansive illuminated bar.
Our waiter, who proudly told us he was from Brooklyn and grew up on the same food made by chef Rino Aprea, was passionate about his dish recommendations, so we put our trust in him and were not disappointed. We started with the Chevalatta ($28) and Spedini Mozzarella alla Romano ($26). The ring sausage with delicate hints of fennel was topped with a generous amount of shaved Parmesan that balanced its sweetness. It was juicy, perfectly seared, and served on sautéed broccoli rabe. I had never tried the mozzarella dish before, and to me, it resembled an elevated version of fried mozzarella. It’s bread stuffed with cheese, fried and then topped with a tangy red sauce.
For the second course, we tried the Rigatoni Vodka ($32) and Bucatini Carbonara ($31). The al dente pasta delivered precisely what you’d expect. Our waiter suggested we add sausage to the rigatoni, and we’re happy we did. The sausage brought a new layer to the creamy dish, while the crispy pancetta complemented the peppery bucatini.
I should mention that the portions here are quite generous, so you’ll likely have leftovers—which isn’t a bad thing. Even our waiter recommended saving the Costate di Vitello Parmigiano ($68) for next time, but we were determined to try it (and enjoy the leftovers). The veal is massive. Everyone around us turned to glance when it arrived. It was paper-thin, with mighty slices of nearly melted mozzarella peeking through the moderately chunky tomato sauce. Once again, it was exactly what I anticipated, and it delivered with every satisfying bite.
As we waited for the Tartufo Pistachio ($14), a lovely, sweet ending to our meal, I looked around. I was thrilled to see a cozy booth nearby with a group of men, spanning several decades, laughing and enjoying each other’s company instead of the all-too-familiar sight I see these days of silent tables, each person glued to their phone. At least at Rino’s, people come for the food and the camaraderie, and that certainly makes me smile.
IF YOU GO
39 S.E. First Ave., Boca Raton; 561/244-8282
PARKING: Valet, street, garage parking
HOURS: Daily 4 p.m. – 10 p.m.
PRICES: $16 – $68
WEBSITE: rinosofboca.com
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