Naples, Florida—it’s my happy place. Tucked along Florida’s southwest coast, just a quick two-hour drive from Boca Raton, Naples effortlessly blends beach tranquility and natural wonders with a downtown that pulses with city life. For the best of both worlds, check in to a pair of hotels that offer a city-and-shore escape.
SHORE: LaPlaya Beach Resort
From the elevated perch of my room’s balcony at the beachside LaPlaya Beach & Golf Resort, I’m surveying the crystal-clear gulf water that stretches out in front of me—when suddenly I spot a dark figure gracefully moving like a mermaid along the shoreline. Seconds later, a head emerges at the surface, and I recognize that it’s a manatee. A few days earlier, I’d overheard a giddy guest telling a story about one of the gentle creatures swimming right by her in the water. That’s the beauty of Florida’s Gulf coast that keeps me coming back on the regular: its raw and beautiful nature will always surprise you.
LaPlaya Beach & Golf Resort has long held court over what’s arguably one of the best stretches of beach in Naples. It’s a serene slice of scallop-white sand heaven, where attentive beach butlers are always there to make sure your frozen cocktail is fresh, and the clear, shallow water begs frequent dips. This stretch of beach is also a prime shelling spot. One evening during our stay, my friend and I lingered on the beach until nearly sunset, hunting for shells and letting out a shriek of joy when we’d unearth a prized sand dollar.
Sunsets are worth celebrating in Naples, and crowds gather nightly on the beaches and around the historic Naples Pier (which is still closed after the last devastating hurricane) to watch the fiery ball descend into the horizon. LaPlaya guests have the luxury of a front-row seat to the golden-hour show, and its signature restaurant BALEEN offers the chance to savor a beachside dinner on its terrace as the sun bids adieu. (You can also arrange a special toes-in-the-sand dinner, too.) Known for its swoon-worthy ambiance, it’s easy to be romanced by the sunset glow and flickering tiki lights after dark. The menu is focused on fresh seafood and steaks, and highlights include the fresh catch of the day that sits atop a bed of creamy lemon risotto, the bucatini pasta topped with a half Maine lobster, and the truffle-infused beef carpaccio. The well-executed martinis, like the Lychee Fresco, go down a little too easy.
LaPlaya leans into Naples’ serene side, a private paradise where you’ll enjoy beachfront frozen cocktails on a lounger under one of their navy-and-white-striped umbrellas, and then go for a dip in one of the four pools. There’s also a spa and an off-site golf course. Rooms have recently been refreshed, and the upper floor rooms like the Premium Beachfront Gulf Tower King room that I stayed in give you those sweeping Gulf views (which warrant the upgrade), jetted bathtubs and plenty of space to lounge or dine.
CITY: The Inn On Fifth
Craving a bit more city energy, I moved a few days later to The Inn On Fifth, the longtime grand dame of downtown Naples that hovers above Fifth Avenue South, which is dotted with restaurants, bars, art galleries and shops. This is the place to feel the buzz of Naples, at least until 10 p.m.—which, truthfully, is part of Naples’ quiet-luxury charm.
The Inn On Fifth is unique in that it boasts two accommodations: the main hotel with 119 rooms and suites, a spa and rooftop pool, and the Club Level Building located directly across the street with 32 suites. While I’ve stayed at both, I personally prefer the Club Level Building because guests are granted access to the Club, where they offer a breakfast spread in the mornings, snacks during the day, and in the evenings, there are appetizers and a stocked self-service bar with wine, bubbly and a serious liquor and mixer selection. The club’s attendants cater to guests’ needs, from the private check-in to making restaurant suggestions and reservations, and they love chatting with guests during happy hour.
The suites are the kind that tempt you to hide out for the weekend in your robe. The decor matches Naples’ sophisticated style, with a separate living area with a comfy couch worthy of binging your favorite TV show, a marble-draped bathroom with a soaking tub and shower, and a cloud-like bed dressed in fine linens. Another perk is the balconies, which have different vantage points, with the best being those that overlook the action of Fifth Avenue. I loved sitting out there and watching the street wake up in the mornings and come alive at night with activity.
Guests can walk across the street to the main hotel to sunbathe by the glassy rooftop pool; but if you prefer the beach, the hotel now offers an adorable cabana set-up on the beach that comes with amenities for an elevated beach day (from $477). When I had enough sun, I’d walk right outside the door to stroll and shop Fifth Avenue. The hotel spa, Spa on Fifth, is a small-but-mighty gem that feels like an oasis from the busyness of the avenue. I had an amazing massage that was just the right mix of deep pressure to relieve stress with a blend of relaxation—I even fell asleep. You can also indulge in an in-room massage. One other perk worth mentioning: The hotel now delivers the coveted Nothing Bundt Cakes, those tiny cakes of joy with creamy icing, to your room upon order.
The Inn on Fifth is also adjacent to two restaurants, Ocean Prime and Truluck’s. Naples is ever evolving with new restaurants, but swanky Ocean Prime is always busy for a reason: I’ve always had excellent service, a perfectly chilled dirty martini, and the “smoking” shellfish tower never fails to impress. Start with the jumbo lump crab cake with a mustard aioli sauce, share a sushi roll, and then move on to the blackened snapper atop cornbread and any of their steaks.
When it was time to leave, I felt like I had just enough beach bliss mixed with sophisticated city energy.
