After the long-haul flight from Miami, I’m tired and bleary-eyed when we pull into the driveway of Hotel Bellevue Dubrovnik. From the outside, the glassy hotel nestled in a primarily residential neighborhood, yet a 15-minute walk from Dubrovnik’s history-soaked Old Town (where snippets from the wildly popular “Game of Thrones” TV series were shot), is, frankly, unassuming.
The boutique hotel is part of the homegrown Adriatic Luxury Hotels collection and recently reopened after a major aesthetic overhaul—and while I had peeked at photos online, nothing prepared me for the reality of its seaside dramatics. Dropping my bags in a suite bathed in a contemporary-meets-coastal palette, I made a beeline for the balcony. As I peered over the glass enclosure, my instant reaction was the response every vacationer should have upon arrival at a hotel: sheer giddiness and awe.
The hotel is carved into a cliffside and hovers above a secluded cove that embraces the clear-as-gin Miramare Bay, its turquoise-tinged waters hemmed in by jagged rocks and open-mouth caves. While I’ll confess that I’ve never watched a full episode of “GOT” (don’t come for me), Hotel Bellevue’s cinematic setting bestows its own movie-worthy magic. I’ve arrived in the fall, and like in Florida, the calendar isn’t dictating people’s beach behavior: Sunbathers dot swaths of towels on the pebbled beach, while others are floating in the water that enticingly glimmers in the sun. A few brave souls are leaping into the water from the surrounding cliffs, a Croatian rite of passage of sorts.
Defying jet lag, I slip on my swimsuit and whisk down the glass elevator to the beach for a quick dip in the sea; the hotel and its 91 rooms and suites are encased in floor-to-ceiling glass to showcase the swoon-worthy setting. After maneuvering over the rocky bottom (and cursing myself for not bringing the suggested water shoes) to fully submerge into the chilly water, my exhaustion is quickly replaced with a jolt of adrenaline. But when the initial shock wears off and the Mediterranean sun warms my body, it’s evident why vacationers linger in the sea until sunset—even in October. Each day follows the same rhythm as guests perform a ritual of dipping in the sea and retreating to sun loungers on the hotel’s private terrace.
Hotel Bellevue’s relaxed vibes extend into the evenings, when a musician serenades a chic crowd on Spice Lounge’s outdoor terrace, where even after dark, the serene lull of the Adriatic Sea is ever-present. It’s the perfect prelude to dinner at Vapor, a Michelin Guide Recommended restaurant that touts seasonal dishes with interesting twists. There, I savor tender risotto touched with wild mushrooms and slivers of almonds—and, because fish is king in Croatia, freshly caught white fish paired with cauliflower au gratin topped with locally sourced herbs. All are made even better with copious glasses of Croatian wine.
The City and the Sea
After a few days of secluded beachfront bliss, I moved on to another seaside retreat, Hotel Excelsior Dubrovnik, which is primely situated minutes from Old Town’s medieval walls—so close that you can hear the chimes of church bells in the distance. Considered a longtime diamond on the Dalmatian Coast, with a villa built in 1913 that’s now married with a modern addition, the five-star hotel has famously hosted grand dames such as Elizabeth Taylor and Queen Elizabeth II. It’s easy to grasp the hotel’s jet-setter draw once you rest eyes on its enviable westward-facing position that parades a snapshot of the Adriatic Sea sprawl and the old city.
Excelsior’s calling card is a seaside platform with a ladder that extends into the water for optimal swimming. Even though the turquoise water was churning when I was there, it didn’t stop people from bobbing in the waves. There’s nothing like soaking in the sea at sunset, staring at the majestic backdrop of Old Town. However, the hotel’s Instagram-worthy moment is a heavenly dip in a marble pool that’s fed by the salty sea, another picture-perfect spot to gaze at the old city. When you’ve tired of the outdoors, retreat to the expansive indoor spa area for stints in the Roman baths, sauna and heated pool, and then treat yourself to a decadent massage. At night, choose from three restaurants, including elegant Sensus, where Mediterranean cuisine shines as brightly as the views from the restaurant’s floor-to-ceiling windows.
Delve Into Old Town Medieval Magic
Hotel Excelsior is a five-minute walk to the main attraction of Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site fortified with medieval walls that encase a bevy of architecturally rich churches, palaces, fountains and historic landmarks. I took my time walking there from the hotel, making a stop at popular Banje Beach, a sandy beach that’s peppered with sun loungers and that boasts epic views for photos.
In Old Town, you can choose from various tours, including those centered around set locations ripped from “Game of Thrones” to history-laden walking tours (which the hotels can pre-arrange). I found the best way to experience the compact, pedestrian- only enclave is to simply get lost on your own. I followed the gaggles of tourists to grab a sweating cone of gelato from Peppino’s, then wandered the twisting streets to dip into art galleries and shops peddling ceramic fish and vivid paintings capturing Dubrovnik’s seaside splendor. Since it was October, and most of the masses were gone, I was able to walk atop the famous stone walls (there is a $36 fee to do so) and drink in unobstructed views of the shimmering sea and the city’s signature terracotta roofs and fortresses. Every turn offers another picture-worthy moment.
I joined a rowdy crowd at cash-only Buža Bar to witness teenagers hurl themselves from the rocks into the Adriatic—and after much coaxing, tourists stripped down to join them and then celebrated their daring accomplishment with cold beers. While I didn’t jump (it was too cold and overcast that day for this Floridian), I continued on and stumbled upon the family-run Italian restaurant Trattoria Carmen, where I snagged an al fresco seat along the shaded street to devour a homemade pasta starring fresh shrimp and decadent truffles.
Even if you’ve explored every inch of Old Town, you must return at night to witness the ancient walls and landmarks cast in a dreamy light. My most memorable dinner was at Nautika, a romance-inducing restaurant that edges the sea and offers another movie-worthy setting from its terraces that overlook the glowing fortresses of Lovrijenac and Bokar. This is the place to sip on inventive cocktails, including one served in a silver vessel that feels like it was ripped from Winterfell (but don’t miss the vast array of Croatian wines), and then allow the white-gloved servers to lead you through the Bokar tasting menu that intermingles French and Italian flair with a heavy focus on fresh-from-the-boat Mediterranean seafood.
Embark on Dreamy Day Trips
It’s almost mandatory to experience Croatia’s clear-clear water on a boat. Both Excelsior and Bellevue hotels will set up a luxe private boat tour where you’ll island-hop through the trio of Elaphiti Islands with a glass of bubbly in hand to explore hidden coves and fishing villages.
One day, I jumped on a quick ferry from Old Town to Lokrum Island, a peaceful slice of paradise where peacocks roam free and where you can swim in protected coves, peruse a botanical garden planted in the 19th century, and even float in a saltwater lake that’s likened to the Dead Sea. The island is steeped in fascinating lore, including tales that the monks who were evicted from the Benedictine monastery (now in ruins) put a curse on the island.
But it wasn’t until I zipped off on a day trip to Ston—a fairytale town celebrated for its stretching fortress walls, salt pans and delicious oysters—that I fully understood the Croatian mindset. After cruising through Mali Ston Bay and downing shots of grappa, our tour group docked at a floating oyster farm where the cultivator hoisted dripping nets clutching oysters from the water below us. As he shucked the bivalves, he explained that Mali Ston Bay flaunts a unique mix of freshwater and seawater and is considered one of the Mediterranean’s cleanest and clearest bays, contributing to their distinct taste.
“If you eat this, you’ll need two lovers,” he promised as we dug into the plump oysters that locals consider natural aphrodisiacs.
We capped off the day with lunch on the sun-dappled patio of gastronomic institution Kapetanova kuca, and as we feasted on platters of seafood paired with more wine and coffee, a local exclaimed: “You’re having a ‘pomalo’ day,” further explaining that the cherished Croatian phrase means that you’re relaxed and taking it easy, without stress or rushing.
A mantra that’s easy to repeat while vacationing in Croatia.
This story is from the February 2025 issue of Boca magazine. For more like this, click here to subscribe to the magazine.
