The ragged coastline, with its plunging cliffs, wild sea and cutting wind welcomes us to Mendocino County, California. Its tagline “room to roam” is no exaggeration. Here social distancing is a way of life. And I’m all for it.
Don’t get me wrong; big-city living has its perks, but we all need to commune with nature for our mental, physical and emotional well-being. The entire county’s population of nearly 100,000 pales in comparison to San Francisco’s nearly one million, who live a three-hour drive south of the county’s namesake town of Mendocino (population 800). A getaway to this remote northern part of the state rewards those willing to get off the beaten path (quite literally, but more on that later) with a collection of charming towns, countless outdoor activities, towering redwood forests and an underrated wine region.
When planning the trip, determining if a hotel will simply be a place to lay your head at the end of a day or an experience in itself is essential. A nonstop trek from attraction to attraction calls for a place to just crash, but if it’s a desire for tranquility, majestic landscapes, and a hustle-less vibe that you’re seeking, then the Inn at Newport Ranch is it. The luxury retreat is on 2,000 private acres of a working cattle ranch on top of sweeping bluffs. If you’re looking to truly get away from it all, this resort only accommodates 20 guests and another 10 in the owner’s seaside home (when available). The only time we saw other guests was at meals, enjoying dishes created with produce from the on-site gardens (think herbs, spices, stocky greens, potatoes) and locally sourced fish and meat.
The hotel’s property is home to several microclimates, from sunny coastal meadows to cool and moist redwood forests, and the best way to experience them all is on a private UTV Tour. If you visit next winter, make sure to layer up and snuggle into the wool blanket your guide provides. Flat pastures give away to towering forests, and then it’s up to the ridge’s peak, where we caught a bobcat sunbathing (at a safe distance).
With a focus on ecotourism and sustainability, the hotel planted nearly 11,000 redwood seedlings in the last three years, and invites guests to plant and name a tree during their stay. Other ways to reconnect with nature include a mushroom forage tour with the in-house fungi expert, gourmet oceanfront picnics, breathtaking sunset happy hours among the cliffs, horseback riding, whale watching (in spring and fall) and even an oh-so-soothing massage in the resort’s underground forest-like spa. If you want to take your relaxation to the next level, book the restorative wellness retreat package that includes a private yoga session, guided hike, forest bathing and massage.
If you’re looking to stay only a four-minute drive to shops and restaurants, then book a room at the Brewery Gulch Inn in Mendocino. Perched on a hill overlooking the picturesque Smuggler’s Cove, the luxury rustic hotel welcomes guests into its warm, homey Grand Room, complete with a four-sided glass-and-steel fireplace. Your stay includes a daily breakfast and an afternoon wine hour with curated appetizer Mendo Boxes that really could double as dinner for the amount of food that’s involved. Our box for two, which we enjoyed out on the terrace, came with a beet salad, half a chicken, a side of potatoes and an apple crepe. And we paired it with a local Fathers & Daughters pinot noir.
For a bit of adventure, head to the Skunk Train’s railbikes. Choose from a seven-mile, two-hour excursion or a longer 25-mile, four-hour journey into the forest (this tour includes a complimentary picnic). Either way, athleticism shouldn’t be a concern, because the electric bikes allow you to choose to peddle as much or as little as you’d like. Riding on a railway track into the forest, you feel a true connection to nature as the wind whips around you and the ancient redwoods tower over you. This is one of the coolest outdoor experiences I’ve encountered.
TRAVEL NOTES
GO
From South Florida, fly to Santa Rosa (2-hour drive away), San Francisco (3-hour drive away) or Sacramento (4-hour drive away), rent a car and head north. If you decide to stay at the Inn at Newport Ranch, level up by asking the hotel to arrange for a helicopter to whisk you up the coast.
STAY
BREWERY GULCH INN
Warm and welcoming centrally located hotel that feels like home. 9401 CA-1, Mendocino, CA; 800/578-4454; brewerygulchinn.com
INN AT NEWPORT RANCH
Breathtaking views, luxury accommodations on a working oceanfront ranch. 31502 CA-1, Fort Bragg, CA; 707/962-4818; theinnatnewportranch.com
DINE
LITTLE RIVER INN RESTAURANT
Romantic garden setting featuring coastal cuisine.
7901 N. Highway 1, Little River, CA; 707/937-5942; littleriverinn.com
MACCALLUM HOUSE
Hotel restaurant serving divine organic, farm-to-table fare. 45020 Albion St., Mendocino, CA; 707/937-0289; maccallumhouse.com
SIP
BEE HUNTER
Quaint tasting room pouring a variety of reds, whites and rosés. 14251 Highway 128, Boonville, CA; 707/895-3995; beehunterwine.com
HANDLEY CELLARS
Family-run winery producing fruit-driven wines. 3151 Highway 128, Philo, CA; 707/895-3876; handleycellars.com
ROEDERER ESTATE
French superstars now producing sparkling wines across the ocean. 4501 Highway 128, Philo, CA; 707/895-2288; roedererestate.com
DO
SKUNK TRAIN RAILBIKES
Cycle through the redwood forest on electric bikes. 707/964-6371; skunktrain.com/railbikes-on-the-noyo
LLAMA FEEDING
Glendeven Inn & Lodge hosts nightly llama feedings. 8205 N. Highway 1, Little River, CA; 707/937-0083; glendeven.com
DRIVE-THRU TREE PARK
Understand how large redwoods can grow by driving through one. 67402 Drive Thru Tree Road, Leggett, CA; 707/925-6464; drivethrutree.com
Other activities to consider include the Chandelier Drive-Thru redwood (1.5 hour drive from Mendocino), where visitors have been driving through one of these majestic trees since 1937. Closer to town, the Glendeven Inn & Lodge hosts daily feeds for its three resident llamas, and if you visit in March, make sure to hop on board a whale-watching boat at Noyo Harbor in Fort Gragg in hopes of catching the migrating grey whales.
Another way to experience nature is by sipping on the array of wines that are produced in the region. The Mendocino County AVA is home to several sub-appellations, with two of its more popular Anderson Valley and Yorkville. Mendocino is one of the state’s largest wine-producing counties. While it’s famous for its pinot noirs and sparkling wines, it’s also growing zinfandel, grenache, barbera and sauvignon blanc, among others.
Celebrated French Champagne house Louis Roederer established its Anderson Valley Roederer Estate in 1982 and brought with it a reputation of making renowned sparkling wine in the area. Just down the street, we also visited Handley Cellars, a winery on a working family farm. Started by one of the first female winemakers in the area, Milla Handley, the 30 acres under cultivation are now managed by her daughter Lulu, and she’s producing aromatic, organically farmed estate wines from chardonnay to pinot noir.
Further south in Boonville, winemaking duo Ali Nemo and Andy DuVigneaud at Bee Hunter will pour you syrahs, pinot noirs and Rhone blends. On your way back to Mendocino, take a short detour to the seaside village of Elk, stop by the general store (famous for its sandwiches) and cross the street to the state park that’s dotted with massive rocks that will make you feel like you’ve stepped into “The Goonies.”
This article is from the March 2023 issue of Boca magazine. For more like this, click here to subscribe to the magazine.
