On its face, the pairing of beer and sushi doesn’t seem like the most intuitive culinary marriage. Then again, you don’t get to be the only Michelin-starred brewery in the world by coloring within the lines.
Moody Tongue, now open at The Hilton West Palm Beach, comes to us by way of Chicago, where brewmaster Jared Rouben garnered the attention (and a star) from the esteemed Michelin Guide for his collection of craft beers developed for even the “moodiest” of palates. With a culinary background that includes stints at several Michelin-starred restaurants, Rouben approaches the brewing process with a chef’s mentality, meticulously engineering each brew so that the bold ingredients shine through with every sip. At Moody Tongue, these beers form the foundation of an omakase tasting experience unlike any other.
Whereas most restaurants build a beverage program around food, Moody Tongue builds its food menu around its beer, which is why it’s recommended to opt for the beer pairing for an additional $75 (the omakase without the pairing is $145). The basic set-up is this: the chef will plate two pieces of nigiri (one course each) in front of you and the server will deliver a 3- to 4-ounce pour of Moody Tongue beer and explain the best way to meld the flavors—sip, taste, sip, taste.
The menu at Moody Tongue changes based on the seasonality of ingredients and on whichever brews the chef puts in the spotlight. The stars of the show during our visit included tender slices of Hokkaido scallop wrapped in seaweed, topped with edamame and caviar, and dressed with bonito mayo, paired with the crisp, fruity Pressed Asian Pear Saison, and a wagyu handroll drizzled with horseradish cream and paired with the Piquette Cerise—think steak paired with a light, fizzy semi-sweet red wine.
Another pairing that couldn’t go unnoticed was that of the atmosphere with the menu. Moody Tongue’s vibe is sultry and intimate, dimly lit save for the lights that shine over the plates atop the 14-seat omakase counter, with a few tables lining the wall of the room, which is as nondescript from the outside as a hotel conference room, and just as small. It’s not a lot to take in, and it’s as if the intention is to direct all sensory power to taste.
The main question I had going in was if a $200+ omakase experience was worth the price tag, and I actually got my answer from a fellow diner before the first course was even plated, who told me that this was his fourth time dining at Moody Tongue since it opened in January. And after savoring each of the 15 courses, I can definitely see what keeps him coming back.
600 Okeechobee Blvd., West Palm Beach; 561/494-9650; moodytongue.com
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