Chef Glen Manfra is trying out his menu all summer-this September the Pop-Up at 217 E. Atlantic Ave. will morph into Spoonfed, his restaurant in the heart of Delray’s Atlantic Avenue dining scene. I remember Manfra from his days way back at Bice, before he and Mauricio Ciminella jumped ship to start Amici in Palm Beach-and his talents still stand up to the test.
Like a lot of other people, I have to wonder why we need yet another Italian restaurant anywhere within about 100 miles of South Florida, but I have to admit Manfra’s is the real deal-homemade pasta, a superb Bolognese sauce, and fresh fish, good bread. He plans on revamping the space previously inhabited by the short-lived Atlantic Ocean Club to give it a warmer feel (we are all for nixing the brushed chrome and neon thing) more in keeping with what he is doing on the menu.
Last night a bunch of us got to graze through the menu and everyone agreed that the food was first-rate. After fresh and imaginative antipasti with beets and greens and shaved Parmesan (and more), we ordered everything from fresh black grouper to pasta. The rich veal agnolotti with mushrooms, sage, brown butter and Parmesan was a standout as was the bucatini with filet mignon tips. Out of sheer nostalgia I had the rigatoni -which is what my mother used to make in her Midwestern nod to Italian dishes-and it was wonderful. Goat cheese pizzetta outstanding, as was the fish, perfectly done. There was more, but it’s safe to assume that Manfra is on his game. It’s good to have him back.
So pop in to Pop Up-and watch for its new incarnation, Spoonfed, sometime on or after September 1.
