When I reviewed Amar a few years ago, it was the new kid on the block, yet it had already cultivated a strong following of dedicated diners who flocked to the family-owned restaurant for its mezze and house-made desserts. The dishes delivered solid, bright flavors that honored owner Nicolas Kurban’s Lebanese roots. Based on my experience, there were two significant aspects of Amar that I hoped could be addressed one day—a fully stocked bar and a larger outdoor space.
Well, that time has come. Amar reopened a few months ago at its new location with an expansive, stunning full bar that complements its spacious outdoor covered terrace. But with a new space, would the quality of its food suffer? Or would Amar’s quaintness be sacrificed for a larger commercial design that lacks warmth and personality? Fortunately, neither has occurred.
Kurban, along with his daughter Nicole and son-in-law Michael McKenna, took over the former Bar 25 Gastropub’s 4,500-square-foot space and created Amar 2.0, a glamorized version that’s still charming, warm and welcoming. On the evening we visited, our mezze of Spicy Harissa Hummus ($18), Baba Ghanouj ($14), Fatayer ($16) and Fried Kibbeh ($16) had just hit the table when the music turned up, and a beautiful belly dancer floated into the room. People danced with her, entertaining everyone and adding to the jovial atmosphere.
The hummus was as creamy as I remembered; this time, I tried the spicy version with a nice hint of heat that wasn’t overwhelming. The baba ghanouj was just as velvety, featuring smoky undertones from the charred eggplant and bright, crunchy bursts from the pomegranate seeds. The fatayer spinach pie bites were more on the doughy side. While I personally prefer the phyllo version, these were filled with fresh spinach with a slightly acidic finish. The beef kibbeh fried balls, with hints of cinnamon, were lighter compared to some very dense counterparts I’ve had. Plus, I loved the tzatziki sauce (yogurt, cucumber, mint) that I slathered all over them.
At our waiter’s suggestion, we ordered the Mixed Grill ($89). It includes chicken, kafta (or Lebanese-style meatballs), Wagyu steak, lamb chops and rice. Additionally, it features delightful garlic paste, pesto and mint sauces. This large platter is ideal for sharing, but sadly, both the lamb and steak were overcooked. The Caledonian Prawn Kebabs ($36) provided redemption with their plumpness, coated in a date glaze and grilled to juicy perfection.
While all the house-made desserts sounded great, we chose the Baklava ($14) and were rewarded with delicate phyllo and nut layers sweetened with ambrosial honey. As we walked out, the bar and patio were equally lively and filled with happy diners. It certainly thrilled me to see a charming family-owned restaurant evolve into a vibrant hotspot for both locals and visitors.
IF YOU GO
25 S.E. Sixth Ave., Delray Beach; 561/865-5653
PARKING: Valet, street parking
HOURS: Sunday – Thursday 4 – 9 p.m.; Friday & Saturday 4 – 10 p.m.
PRICES: $13 – $86
WEBSITE: amardelray.com
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