10 N. Ocean Blvd., Delray Beach; 561/274-3289
Drift may be part of the Opal Grand Resort & Spa’s recent multimillion-dollar renovation, but its location is rooted in history. In different iterations, a hotel has embraced the corner of Atlantic Avenue and A1A for decades. Its first denizen, the Seacrest Hotel, debuted circa 1925. More recently, we remember it as the Holiday Inn and then the Marriott.
Even before stepping into Drift, the hotel’s makeover is front and center, its façade transforming from dated Mediterranean to a modern and clean island-inspired style. Once inside, the sophistication continues, with its lobby boasting whimsical, lush trees that seem to float in an illuminated pond, tony swinging chairs and a lively lobby bar with an impressive living wall (there was live music and a decent Happy Hour crowd when I walked by). The indoors and outdoors seamlessly come together in the lobby, and that continuity extends into Drift.
The restaurant’s coastal décor is polished, with warm woods, textured stone walls, rope detailing, and even more living walls. The bar is spacious, and several lounge-y nooks are outside, overlooking the ocean and the buzzy Atlantic Avenue. The all-day menu covers all the bases but isn’t basic. You’ll find easy dishes to snack on post-beach or for an extended Happy Hour experience, like a cheese board, hummus, baked oysters and poke alongside casual burgers, flatbreads and salads. The entrées offer something for everyone, including chicken, steak, lamb and fish.
We started with the whipped feta ($14), the table’s favorite. It’s served in a petite jar and topped with honey, tomato compote and toasted pine nuts. I slathered the creamy dip over the herbed lavash (a thin flatbread) and was very satisfied. In between bites, I also enjoyed the spicy pickled vegetables that added an acidic balance to the dish. The maple and pomegranate-glazed Brussels sprouts ($14) followed. The lobster & avocado toast ($22) that arrived next was beautiful, but the flavor was slightly underwhelming.
For entrées, we ordered the pan-seared grouper ($40) and Drift burger ($20). The fish was well cooked and served with a root vegetable caponata (chopped vegetables, similar to ratatouille), broccolini, and parsnip potato purée. While the purée was silky smooth and delicious, I would have loved a more pronounced taste of parsnip. Burger lovers should try the signature burger that came sky-high with all its accouterments, including roasted wild mushrooms, red onion marmalade, smoked mozzarella, truffle aioli and crispy shallots in between toasted buttery brioche buns.
We finished the night with the house-made chocolate truffle crunch ($10), a nutty and fluffy combination that reminded me of a festive Ferrero Rocher chocolate ball.
While some plates fell just a tad short, Drift makes for a stellar venue for an extended Happy Hour with its chic coastal vibes, the sea in the background and refreshing cocktails paired with uncomplicated shareable plates in the foreground.
IF YOU GO…
PARKING: Hotel valet, street parking
HOURS: Daily, 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m.
PRICES: $12-$52
WEBSITE: opalcollection.com/opal-grand/restaurants/drift
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