Driftwood isn’t new. But what’s better than being the hottest ticket in town? Being a beloved community staple. Thanks to the hard work and perseverance of husband-and-wife team Jimmy Everett and Ilia Gonzalez, Driftwood consistently serves inventive dishes infused with Everett’s fine-dining training. It’s also their dedication to guests, local purveyors and their talented staff that truly makes them stand out.
Farm-to-table isn’t just a cliché at Driftwood; as a native South Floridian, Everett’s goal has always been to source hyperlocal ingredients. And that belief isn’t always easy or profitable for a commercial kitchen, and the menu may vary based on what’s available. On the evening I visited, Chiefland Quincey Cattle, Fort Lauderdale and Key West swordfish and Fort Pierce golden tilefish were proudly identified on the menu.
We started with the ceviche ($20) and smoked fish dip ($16). The ceviche was thinly sliced tilefish in a smooth, sweet potato gazpacho with hints of local passionfruit. The creaminess of the sauce was complemented by the crunch of plantain chips, red onions and sliced radishes, while the jalapeños and cilantro added their signature flavors to round out the dish. I eat a lot of ceviche, but this was different. It was sweeter and less citrusy than others but equally as refreshing. I hesitated to order the dip because the fish is usually lost in an overwhelming amount of mayo. Not here. The smoked swordfish was simply prepared with pickled celery, topped with dill and served with house-made crackers. I could taste its smokiness, the Old Bay in the crackers, and the fresh dill; delightful.
After every course, our dishes and silverware were changed without us asking—another nod to Everett’s attention to detail. The following smoked Heritage pork jowl fried rice ($20) and smoked boneless Quincey Cattle short ribs ($38) were equally impressive. The Carolina gold rice was a mix of fluffy and golden-brown extra-crispy rice, which made the dish for me. It was mixed with collard green kimchi and crispy garlic and topped with a wonderfully oozy duck egg from Charmed Life Farm. The elevated presentation of the short ribs set the scene: Sliced radishes covered the tender meat in a burgundy-hued beet mole sauce. Its cacao dry marinade rub and smokiness came together in each bite and were balanced by the smooth horseradish crema.
We’d had our fill, but we had to indulge in one of the kitchen’s sweet treats, which are all made in-house. The 51/50 s’mores boca negra ($12) is a flourless cake made with Delray Beach’s 5150 Chocolate Co. chocolate and topped with a layer of toasted marshmallow and a side of passion fruit ice cream on salted honey streusel. It was the best, most sinful way to end this meal, as it truly captured Driftwood’s passion for sustainability, supporting our local economy, and feeding us the highest quality and freshest fare.
IF YOU GO
2005 Federal Highway, Boynton Beach; 561/733-4782
PARKING: Lot parking
HOURS: Wednesday – Sunday, 4 – 9 p.m.
PRICES: $7 – $52
WEBSITE: driftwoodboynton.com
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