Kasumi is one of those concepts that instantly made me feel at ease. It might be the warm lighting that enveloped the space, its serene water views, the contemporary design that exudes effortless sophistication, or the simple combination of all the above. On the evening I visited, the space was buzzing with guests, yet the waiters gracefully floated from table to table while the chefs in the open kitchen deftly prepared well-executed, well-timed dishes. The menu is made for sharing, but I never felt rushed or overwhelmed by the number of dishes at the table.
As the Waterstone Resort & Marina’s second waterfront restaurant, this modern Japanese concept delivers an elevated level of cuisine and service akin to that in larger cities like New York and London, and I’m all for it. This is thanks to the two masterminds behind it: James Beard award-winning chef Takashi Yagihashi and chef and restaurateur Jonathan Fox, who have teamed up to bring us their take on Japanese hospitality.
We started with the Crudo of Hamachi ($21). The yellowfin tuna slices were buttery soft, and the black garlic and petit Jerusalem artichoke chips gave each morsel a wonderfully flavorful crunch. The Shio Koji Sea Bass ($22) followed; the colorful edible flowers made the beautifully plated dish visually pop, while the sea bass folded over pickled cucumbers made my palate pop with its refreshing flavors. The shio koji, a Japanese condiment used to add an umami flavor to dishes and as a pickling medium, is subtle.
There are several hand roll and maki options. We chose the Tres Amigos ($26). Before it arrived, we were served two types of soy sauce, including one gluten-free (a nice, thoughtful touch). The delicate yet hearty seaweed-wrapped maki roll is packed with tuna, salmon, hamachi and avocado. The fish trifecta was then topped with crispy tortilla chips as a playful nod to its name. It had a surprising look, but I enjoyed it.
The larger, main entrées are limited, but I was pleased to see pompano ($32) on the menu. While we’re surrounded by water, I see more branzino on menus than any local fish. So I tried the moro miso-crusted local fish and paired it with the Beef Short Rib Fried Rice ($29). The pompano was simply plated with a lovely sear that allowed the flavors of the fish and moro miso (a fermented food made of soybeans with a salty umami flavor) to come through. Every forkful of fried rice delivered fluffy kernels blended with egg, carrots, edamame and tender short rib.
I wasn’t sure a dessert could top the explosions of flavors we’d already had, but the mango Kakigori ($15) exceeded expectations. The delicately shaved ice, topped with mango, vanilla bean ice cream and meringue, was a refreshing, nostalgic end to our evening. It’s said that kasumi loosely translates to mist and its sense of ephemeral beauty. I hope this restaurant becomes a time-honored member of our culinary scene.
IF YOU GO
999 E. Camino Real, Boca Raton; 561/226-3033
PARKING: Valet
HOURS: Tuesday – Thursday, 5 – 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 – 10 p.m.; Sunday, 5 – 9 p.m.
PRICES: $13 – $75
WEBSITE: kasumiboca.com
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