When the prestigious Michelin Guide arrived in Florida in 2022, South Florida foodies toasted to the news with much merriment. When it announced this year that it would expand into Fort Lauderdale for the first time, the city’s culinary scene held its breath—would it finally have a chance to join the culinary elite?
Chef Ryan Ratino opened MAASS at the Four Seasons Hotel and Residences in late 2023. A lauded young chef (he’s 35!) who already helmed two starred restaurants in Washington, D.C., his arrival was a win for the city’s culinary scene. And then, MAASS was the only Fort Lauderdale restaurant awarded a star. I must note, while I have dined at the restaurant and enjoyed its a la carte menu, this review is solely focused on the Michelin-starred Chef’s Counter, with its 14 seats.
The restaurant, located beachside on the hotel’s ground floor, is named in honor of the late local architect Gustav Maass, who infused his Mediterranean Revival designs into homes during the early 20th century. The space appears to glow from within, featuring warm woods, cozy banquettes and golden lighting. In contrast, The Chef’s Counter is brightly lit with front-row views of the stainless-steel kitchen illuminated by fire.
The evening I dined, Executive Chef David Brito, in his white Birkenstock kitchen clogs and laser-focused gaze, conducted his silent symphony. While the menu isn’t known to change, there may be subtle differences from the dishes I ate, so I won’t go into too much dish detail in this review. Plus, I don’t want to deprive you of the joy you’ll feel when each beautiful dish, shrouded in a bit of mystery, is placed in front of you.
We arrived to our reservation late and exasperated after hitting every red light. After confessing this to our waiter, without another word, he arrived with two glasses of Champagne. What a simple but thoughtful gesture. While Debbie Deb played in the background, we were treated to four amuse-bouches. Each is its own marvel, but to me, the elevated foie gras petit four bite, inspired by two nostalgic treats—the Nabisco Nutter Butter cookie and a peanut butter and jelly sandwich—was the star.
As the music moved into the early aughts, we savored three distinct seafood courses: a yellowtail hamachi with crisp Italian melon, a warm custard with Dungeness crab and sweet corn, and a scallop with trout roe. I know it might seem like a lot, but don’t fret; each course is manageable. Plus, you must make sure to save room for my favorite course—rice topped with an airy yet indulgent Comté cheese foam that precedes the beef filet and several desserts that complete the meal.
The Chef’s Counter offers two prix fixe Japanese-inspired menus that differ in price and duration. The Excursion ($195) is a two-hour, seven-course experience, while The Voyage ($375) is an indulgent three-hour, 10-course dinner with succulent additions like Kaluga caviar and A5 bavette.
So, the question on your mind now must be: ‘OK, but is it worth it?’ Overall, going into any Michelin-starred dinner, expectations are that the entire experience will be unique, enticing, awe-inspiring and memorable. With that in mind, it’s absolutely worth it.
IF YOU GO
525 N. Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd., Fort Lauderdale; 954/256-0000
PARKING: Valet
HOURS: Monday – Sunday 5 – 10 p.m.
PRICES: $195 or $375 (prix fixe menus)
WEBSITE: maassftl.com
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