259 N.E. Second Ave., Delray Beach; 561/266-0599
Sometimes I’m in the mood to get all dressed up and eat at a posh restaurant, but most of the time I just want straightforward food in a relaxed setting. Simple doesn’t translate to bland or boring at Papa’s Tapas. Instead, it expresses a warm, familial ambience, where you can taste the care that goes into each dish. Ancestrally I’m Spanish, but even if I’m several generations removed, there’s something about the cuisine that makes my soul sing. Each region has its specialties, from earthy stews to the freshest seafood, and Papa’s Tapas admirably brings the country’s variety to Delray.
When the family-owned restaurant relocated to its current location about a decade ago, it was considered off the beaten path, several blocks off Atlantic Avenue. But its quaint Pineapple Grove Arts District has exploded in recent years. The owners, whom our bubbly waitress affectionately called mama and papa, are still the heart of the concept, but now their children have stepped up. The evening we dined, we were told their daughter was cooking.
The restaurant is one of those places you instantly feel welcomed. Once the food arrives, you’ll also feel satisfied (and maybe ready for a siesta). For a quick, lighter or shareable meal—whatever you’re in the mood for—the tapas selections are the way to go. We also wanted to try the paella, so we ordered just a few tapas and the famous rice entree. Pro tip: The dish takes an hour to make, so if you’re craving paella but don’t want to wait, call ahead and order it before you leave the house.
We started with the Gambas Al Ajillo ($17), Chorizo Al Jerez ($16) and Pulpo ($20). Most tapas are typically Spanish, but you’ll see a Latin fusion come through on a few, like the Sweet Angels ($15)—ripe plantains wrapped in bacon, a sweet and savory combination that shouldn’t be missed. The other three tapas arrived quickly, each sizzling in their respective terra cotta dish and each featuring equal amounts of aromatic garlic slices. The gambas, or shrimp, were a simple, classic dish with a hint of spice at the end, while the chorizo, or cured meat, was tender and multidimensional in the sherry wine, and the pulpo, or octopus, was soft and far from chewy.
Because we ordered a few tapas, we asked for only one portion of the Paella Marinera ($36)—but you can order it for as many people as you’d like. The portion was sizeable with a variety of seafood, including plump shrimp and scallops, tender calamari and mahi, clams, mussels and a small lobster tail. And the saffron rice was perfectly cooked—not mushy, dry or crunchy.
We ended with two sweet treats: the Yuca & Coconut Cake ($10) and Tres Leches ($7), both homemade but completely different. The traditional tres leches sponge cake was milky, moist and marvelous, while the former had more structure, was served warm and is the creation of mama. I couldn’t think of a better way to end the evening.
IF YOU GO
PARKING: Parking lot
HOURS: Mon.–Thurs., 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Fri., 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m.; Sat., 12 p.m.-10:30 p.m.; Sun., 12 p.m.-9:30 p.m.
PRICES: Entrées $11.95-$28.95
WEBSITE: papastapasdb.com
