Grace Kelly and Kate Moss peer down at me. These iconic women seem to offer their discerning approval even before I take a bite. And after my experience at chef Coton Stine’s latest venture, I agree. I was a fan of her previous Atlantic Avenue concept, Costa by OK&M, which she quietly closed last summer, so I was excited to check out this Pineapple Grove restaurant she opened a year ago.
The quaint space, which merged a former art gallery and Italian restaurant, is a playful contrast of moody drama and glowing lightheartedness. The cozy bar’s vintage Art Nouveau design sets the tone for speakeasy vibes, enhanced by moody lighting, a striking wall mural and plush seating. Strolling into the adjacent room, which shares space with the kitchen, presents a stark contrast. Natural light floods into this luminous area, decorated with vibrant artwork and chalky terrazzo floors.
We start the evening with Crispy Tostones ($16) and the Ora King Crudo ($18). The salmon belly appetizer is part of the raw selections, which also include ceviche and wagyu tartare. The salmon has a lovely citrus-ginger flavor, and the salmon roe adds a fun pop of texture with every bite. The tostones sit on a smear of avocado and are topped with a generous amount of crispy, moist pork belly, coleslaw, white cotija cheese and pickled red onions. I wasn’t sure how to approach the dish, wondering if I should cut it or use my hands. Ultimately, it’s a messy dish, so I opted for utensils. While the flavors delivered, my only note would be that the tostones missed the mark. As a Latina who has cooked and eaten tostones most of my life and knows the pleasure of biting into a freshly fried, crispy, smashed plantain, these were very difficult to cut.
The entrées featured rich, deep flavors. The Tuscan Gnocchi ($32) showcases chef Stine’s Le Cordon Bleu training, where the sauce is the star—a perfectly creamy, citrus-infused complement to the fluffy house-made pasta packed with spinach, tomatoes, Kalamata olives and both shiitake and king trumpet mushrooms. The Seafood Rassa ($48) is a red Thai curry made with lemongrass coconut milk, Key West pink shrimp, the local catch, sweet peppers and snow peas. I happily drenched the jasmine rice it’s served with and enjoyed every balanced, spicy bite.
The Key Lime Pie, a nod to chef Stine’s local roots, was zesty, not overly sugared, and had a cinnamon twist that I enjoyed. As our waiter played “Happy Birthday” on the piano to a table in the adjacent room (where you can catch live music on weekends), I reflected on how Chef Stine’s continued advocacy for locally sourced ingredients and her enthusiastic support for our Florida farms really shines at Table 165.
IF YOU GO
165 N.E. Second Ave., Delray Beach; 561/266-3629
PARKING: Lot and street parking
HOURS: Sunday and Monday 5–9:30 p.m.; Wednesday and Thursday 5–10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5 p.m.–midnight
PRICES: $14–$48
WEBSITE: table165.com
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