I may not be our exalted food critic but I know a sure thing when I taste one and that’s my prediction for Dennis Max’s new restaurant, Max’s Social House(SoHo), two blocks north of Atlantic Avenue in Delray Beach in a historic house that was once Bernnardo’s, then the dearly beloved Falcon House, then Ceviche.
I cannot bring myself to proclaim this a dead restaurant location because the ones that have inhabited the spot have been thisclose to long and storied careers—and brought forth earnest new concepts in the process. SoHo may be the natural culmination of all those attempts, with the kind of fresh ambitious spin that Dennis Max is applying these days to his ventures. This is small plates, craft beers—but ratcheted up a notch or three. Everything we tasted was expertly wrought, creatively flavored and pretty much just right, from the decadent Stilton dip with razor-thin homemade potato chips to the mussels with chorizo, lager, onion, jalapeno and smoked tomato. The smoky broth alone here was worth the price of admission.
We loved our fresh rocket salad and our Day Boat swordfish—but the kicker here for me was the roasted cauliflower. It was like maybe the nicest thing ever done to a cauliflower. Seriously. The menu has pimento cheese. Yes. And a ribeye burger, Akaushi short rib (these are the larger plates) with mac and cheese and a Kobe-style hot dog with srirachi aioli. Think plates from the American songbook of cuisine—executed with a bold new global flavor and plenty of comfort notes.
Ambiance? Not too different, but lighter (thank you), chic in a kind of downhome rustic way, and I think still a wee bit loud. This is not middle age talking—I think everyone, from 20-somethings to their parents, is tired of having to shout at dinner. (Quieter is simply easier, more relaxing.) And the great news is that the outdoor back patio is still there with its big TV and low-key vibe. Prices? Amen. Tapas start in the $5 range; aps in the $15 neighborhood, entrees might hover around $25. Liking those numbers myself.
So that’s my take. Our dining critic will weigh in at a later date and with his erudite and laser-accurate impressions of menu, value and experience but I am guessing he’s going to like it. A lot.
Max’s Social House is at 116 N.E. Sixth Ave., Delray Beach. The restaurant opens Jan. 13 and hours will be from 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily. Happy hour is from 4-7 p.m. Visit sohodelray.com, or call 561/501-4332.
