There’s nothing quite like having a black truffle slowly shaved over your pasta. Its delicate slices land lightly over your dish as the glimmering eyes of your neighbors peer over. You can feel the room pulsate with ravenous excitement. Truffles, a type of fungus that exists in symbiosis with host trees (like oak and hazel), live underground on the root of these trees, making them hard to find. Then, their freshness and intensity decline drastically from the moment they are harvested, so expeditious distribution is also necessary. Truffles have been a lesson in scarcity, exclusivity and a race against time—perhaps until now.
While foodies might be more accustomed to truffles hailing from Italy or France, dozens of truffle species grow in North America. Robert Chang founded the American Truffle Company (ATC) to cultivate and push American-grown Périgord black truffles into the forefront. Using its proprietary technology, ATC works with landowners to inoculate the trees as saplings (or attach truffle spores to the roots). What started as a passion for eating the highly prized truffles transformed into a decade-long enterprise—alongside his partner, Dr. Paul Thomas, a world-renowned mycologist—of educating landowners, chefs and the public about American-grown black truffles.
Chang explains that because they are not driven by terroir, like wine, truffles of the same species from various parts of the world have similar aromas and tastes. Compared to the lengthy distribution process European truffles must undergo before arriving at our dinner table, American truffles can go from farm to kitchen overnight. “Because American black truffles are fresher and, therefore, more potent, they typically command a 10% to 20% premium over their European counterparts. Chefs can use less to achieve the same effect as a one-week-old European truffle, which justifies the higher per-pound price. This is precisely why ripe, just-picked strawberries are more valuable than week-old strawberries,” he says.
So, what do our local chefs think about American-grown truffles, and where can you savor them locally? Chef Paul Niedermann from Jupiter Grill and chef Coton Stine from Costa Delray share their insights on the truffles they’re sourcing from the Pacific Northwest.
Chef Paul Niedermann
Why choose to work with American-grown truffles?
Truffles have a short shelf life, so when the option to source closer to get the freshest product became available, I jumped at the chance!
What types of American-grown truffles have you worked with, and why?
I have used the Oregon black truffle. I chose it for its nutty yet fruity flavor, which makes it perfect for pasta dishes.
What sets them apart?
There is a little bit of sweetness to them and a finish of fruit. That, to me, is what sets them apart from a Burgundy (truffle). The taste is similar but different at the same time.
What are some of your favorite dishes you’ve used them in?
Eggs, mashed potatoes and a simple fresh pasta.
Do you think American-grown truffles have a future?
If it got into the hands of more chefs, I’m certain they would be more involved in the conversation.
Chef Coton Stine
Why choose American-grown truffles?
I always prefer sourcing from my backyard when possible, so I find it appealing to explore North American truffle varieties and find that my guests also love hearing that their food ingredients are local. Morning harvest to your plate, is my motto. When I am in Italy and France, I will enjoy their truffles! European truffles are robust and so special. They are also far away and very expensive.
What do you like about the Oregon truffles?
I find them to be rich, earthy and a little nutty. The white (truffles) are milder, which adds an elegant touch to many dishes.
What does the future hold for American truffles?
The flavors are grand, just like we would expect from a great truffle. I don’t really compare their flavors to our neighbors’, as they are unique to our country. As our truffles become more tangible, I believe that American truffles definitely have a future in our culinary market among chefs, foodies and households.
What are your favorite truffle dishes?
Garlic king trumpet mushroom omelet, forest toast with mushrooms duxelles on rustic bread, wild mushroom bisque, Burgundy braised short rib and house-made pasta in a creamed mushroom cognac sauce.
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