It’s admirable when a restaurant gets its vibe just right. That praise amplifies when the restaurant takes engaging risks—whether with its menu, design or both.
Penelope nailed its aesthetic. White cascading flowers, a tasseled parasol and a neon sign drew us in. Inside, its personality is a whimsical mix of Disney’s Haunted Mansion with a vibrant New Orleans flair. Illuminated umbrellas ebb and flow down from the ceiling while macabre art peers at us. It’s balanced with soft blue Venetian plaster walls and dainty sconces to capture the city’s impactful aesthetic and subdued, otherworldly essence.
Intricate white iron railings suggest a French Quarter balcony above the city. Kaleidoscopic Chihuly-like chandeliers illuminate the powder-blue plush cushions and the expansive mural reminiscent of Louisiana’s picturesque bayou that now surrounds us. I’m entertained and delighted even before my first bite.
The menu features a variety of New Orleans, southern and French-inspired dishes, such as pimento cheese dip, oysters casino, shrimp po’boy and bouillabaisse. It also offers several well-labeled gluten-free dishes. We opted for a family-style dinner, so we shared the buttermilk biscuits ($11), mac and cheese bites ($14), gumbo ($15), fried chicken ($25), and shrimp and grits ($33).
The biscuit wasn’t the fluffy, buttery cloud I’m accustomed to, but its slight staleness disappeared when I dipped it into the thick gumbo topped with white rice. Floating inside the golden roux, bits of chicken, shrimp, andouille sausage and crunchy fried okra clung to it, making the biscuit a perfect vessel. The dish is hearty and makes for an ideal comfort meal for a cool winter day.
The mac and cheese bites were a wonderful surprise; instead of the fried balls I imagined, delicate noodles were filled with melted gruyere and topped with creamy mornay (béchamel) and panko breadcrumbs. The fried chicken delivered—a crispy, tender selection of buttermilk fried chicken with a spicy maple sauce with hints of NOLA’s own Crystal hot sauce.
The grits were creamy and cheesy with massive shrimp and bacon lardon, adding an extra layer of devilishness. The dish is topped with a frothy Subculture coffee foam that was unexpected but thoroughly enjoyable. Both Penelope and Kapow are part of Sub-Culture Group’s portfolio, and as Penelope is located in Kapow’s former Mizner Park location, I appreciated how they tied the concepts together.
Penelope honors a blend of cuisines and delivers comforting fare in a whimsical scene, which I applaud.
IF YOU GO
431 Plaza Real, Boca Raton; 561/896-1038
PARKING: Street and lot parking
HOURS: Monday – Sunday, 4 p.m. – 12 a.m.
PRICES: $11 – $33
WEBSITE: penelopeofboca.com
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