My nose picked up the scent of wood burning before I even stepped out of the car. We eat with all our senses, and chef James Muir had them revving on all cylinders with a simple fire pit adjacent to the front steps. I hadn’t tasted one bite and was already excited for what was to come.
The historic Ruth Jones cottage has been transformed into a whimsical butcher shop that moonlights as a Michelin-recognized steakhouse. The home was originally a 1940s single-family home relocated to its current site on Ocean Avenue. These days, the original fireplace overlooks the palm-tree-clad bar and a TV dedicated to James Bond movies, while the dining room’s vintage and modern design is perfectly juxtaposed. I especially admired the contemporary bubble chandelier with exposed filaments, a nostalgic detail.
When he opened Nicholson Muir in 2022, the Argentine chef honored his roots by naming his concept after his family’s original last name; his great-grandfather dropped “Nicholson” when he moved from Scotland to Argentina. Muir also celebrates his heritage by cooking over live fire with Argentine quebracho wood and natural charcoal, drawing inspiration from fellow Argentine and lauded chef Francis Mallmann. As the butcher shop grew in popularity for its specialty dry-aging, unique cuts and knowledgeable staff, Muir put his formal culinary training and fine-dining experience to work by expanding the concept into a full-service, white-tablecloth steakhouse.
There are several ways to enjoy Nicholson Muir: a 15-course or nine-course omakase menu, a family-style experience, an early-bird three-course menu, and the classic à la carte, the route I chose. We started with the Me So Crispy ($21) and Me So Creamy ($24) appetizers. The former consists of two separate bitesized portions: American wagyu tartare topped with a restrained sriracha aioli over a light crispy potato cake and a spicy tuna tartare on crispy rice. The latter is another two-bite portion, but this one features a perfectly seared scallop on crispy, subtly sweet polenta nibble and a croqueta stuffed with dry-aged beef and a creamy béchamel sauce. I split them, but I could have easily eaten all four pieces happily by myself.
The main courses were the Amatriciana housemade pasta ($32) and, of course, I had to try the steak, so I indulged in a Prime Angus center-cut filet ($96). In true Argentine fashion, it was lightly seasoned with salt and pepper, letting the meat’s flavors take center stage. The Roman pasta delivered with its crisp guanciale and tomato-Pecorino Romano sauce.
Speaking of cheese, the mac and cheese side is a must-have, because it’s made with duck confit and duck fat crumbs that will tempt you into licking the ramekin clean. Not to be outdone, the bread pudding ($14) is one of the best desserts I’ve ever had (and that is no hyperbole). The heath and chocolate bread pudding, topped with vanilla ice cream, floats in a spellbinding coffee-chocolate ganache sauce, expertly balanced to deliver a delicately sweet end to the evening. I will come back just for this, and you should too.
IF YOU GO
480 E. Ocean Ave., Boynton Beach; 561/336-3977
PARKING: Lot & street parking
HOURS: Tues. – Sat., 4 – 10 p.m.
PRICES: $12 – $285
WEBSITE: nicholsonmuir.com
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