I am not a vegan—but I do love exploring a chef’s creativity through their dishes. True Vegan delivered a surprising journey through chef Rahein Jones’ culinary creations. If his name sounds familiar, it’s because his first concept, The New Vegan, opened in Pineapple Grove 13 years ago. Now, four years after that shuttered, he’s back in a marquee spot along Atlantic Avenue.
The space is contemporary, with wicker accents, plush banquettes and a lively patio with front-row views of Atlantic Avenue under its navy awning. We sat outside, and I quickly confessed to our jovial server that I was not vegan. Neither was she, and I instantly felt more comfortable; I’ve been to other vegan and vegetarian restaurants where the vibe was more standoffish. Certainly not here. However, there was a missed opportunity to better educate diners. When I asked what certain items were made of, our server was hesitant or unsure.
While the menu is gluten-free, dairy-free, and soy-free, it’s certainly not flavor-free. Chef Jones became a vegan more than a decade ago, and he’s mastered the art of crafting dishes that appeal to both vegans and those simply looking for a healthy meal. He sources his fruits, vegetables, and spices from his Loxahatchee property and neighboring farms. Jones also hosts monthly plant-based cooking classes.
We started with the vegan fried chicken ($14) and mac & cheese ($13). Whenever mac & cheese is on a menu and it’s not just a side, it calls to me. The “chicken” is a mixture of jackfruit and cauliflower that’s fried and served with a Thousand Island-esque sauce. Visually, the bites looked like fried chicken. I just wish they were a little less fried so I could enjoy the mixture’s flavor a bit more. The mac & cheese is made with tapioca cheese and quinoa pasta. A vegan would love the creamy texture, but for someone who eats cheese, the mouthfeel and sharpness fell short.
For entrées, we tried the falafel burger ($19) and the mushroom Bolognese ($22). I am used to a falafel ball, but Jones flattens the chickpea mixture and slides it between a toasted pretzel bun, which was top-notch. As someone who eats meat, I had trouble distinguishing the penne’s mushroom-driven sauce, which was properly accented with onions, carrots, celery, and basil. This was the table’s favorite by far.
We ended the meal with another surprise: cheesecake. The two slices, topped with strawberries drizzled with maple syrup, had an unconventional flavor I couldn’t pin down, but the decadent scoop of whipped cream redeemed it.
I don’t think I could give up cheese or eggs, but I knew for certain that after this meal, I didn’t feel bloated or overly stuffed. Instead, I felt fulfilled and energized, and that’s certainly something to applaud and be grateful for.
IF YOU GO
123 E. Atlantic Ave., Delray Beach; 561/808-8766
PARKING: Lot & street parking
HOURS: Monday – Thursday 11:30 a.m. – 8:30 p.m.; Friday – Sunday 11:30 a.m. – 9 p.m.
PRICES: $10 – $24
WEBSITE: true-vegan.com
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